How to Assemble the Ultimate Western Big Game Rifle

The author with a beautiful mule deer buck taken at 350 yards with a favorite lightweight rifle.

It’s early July. Velvet-covered deer and elk antlers are growing more massive every day, summer thunderstorms are beginning to build over the high country, and the fall hunting seasons are just a couple short months away. If you’ve been hankering after a great hunting rifle for stalking western big game, now is the time to make your move. There’s never a bad time for a good rifle but now is always the best time.

There are as many differing opinions on what makes a great western hunting rifle, as there are western hunters. One fellow wants a classic, lightweight rifle that balances like a Latin dancer; another wants a heavier modular rig that shoots tiny cloverleaf groups and settles onto the ground like a chunk of lead. One hunter wants cheap, another desires the finest quality available.

Personally, I hunt mostly on public-land and prefer to use the quads God gave me rather than an ATV. The best public-land hunting lies off the beaten path, so I usually hike or ride a horse miles from the nearest road. As a result, lightweight is important. I like quality and demand accuracy from my hunting rifles. Snow and storm doesn’t chase me indoors, so I need my hunting rifle to be weather-resistant. I’m a sucker for classic beauty and I love a well-balanced rifle. So here’s how to assemble the ultimate western hunting rifle according to my criteria. Unless you do most of your hunting from a truck and spend more money on your meals than your footwear, it’ll be just as awesome for you.

Western terrain is often big and wide open. You should tailor your rifle to handle everything from close-range shots in heavy timber to long cross-canyon shots.


The foundation of your setup is, obviously, the rifle itself. Working from the criteria outlined above, here are the features you should look for in a western hunting rifle:

Lightweight: If a rifle is too heavy – above 6.5 pounds – automatically remove it from your list. It might be an awesome rifle, just not for western hunting. The last thing you need when you’re grinding up a near-vertical slope trying to keep up with a herd of elk is extra pounds. Ideally, look for a rifle that weighs closer to five pounds than six.

Superb accuracy renders a western hunting rifle significantly more capable and forgiving in the field than a less-accurate rifle.

Accurate: I’ll admit I’m a bit of an accuracy snob. Rifles that offer only so-so accuracy lose my interest faster than tie-dyed tee shirts and heavy metal. You should look for a rifle that will shoot three-shot groups that average less than one minute of angle (MOA). That’s roughly an inch at 100 yards. My favorite hunting rifles will group inside three quarters of an inch (3/4 MOA).

Usually, you don’t have the opportunity to accuracy test a new rifle before you buy it, so your best strategy is to purchase a gun built by a company with a reputation for out-of-the-box accuracy. A few companies that I trust to deliver accurate new rifles are Browning, Kimber, Weatherby, Nosler, and, if money is not a concern and you desire top-tier, Gunwerks.

Trigger: You need a great trigger in your western hunting rifle. When the buck or bull of a lifetime gives you a fleeting shot opportunity the last thing you should be doing is fighting to get a clean trigger break. Bottom line? Unless your rifle has an awesome trigger already in it, buy and install a top-end trigger from TriggerTech or Timney.

Stainless steel hardware and carbon fiber stock design is perfect for hunting in bad weather and rough terrain.

Durable: For best durability and weather resistance, look for a rifle built with stainless steel and carbon fiber. Both materials thumb their nose at inclement weather. Cerakote (a ceramic-based finish) on metal can enhance durability and appearance but is not necessary.

Design: If you’ll be hunting where grizzly bears share the territory, opt for a controlled-feed action. It might make the difference during a life-and-death encounter with an unreasonable bruin. If you’re not hunting grizzly country, either controlled or push-feed action design will serve you well.

I personally prefer the streamlined classical profile of traditional hunting rifle stocks, with no adjustable comb to hang on brush and twigs, and no beavertail forend to bulge my saddle scabbard. In my experience classic hunting stocks usually balance nicely as well, which is important both for carry-ability and rapid, accurate field shooting.

Barrel length should be kept between 22 and 24 inches. Less and you loose velocity, more and your rifle begins to become unwieldy.

Quality: My rifle is the single most important tool in my arsenal, and I’m not inclined to opt for cheap. You get what you pay for, and while there are some accurate, inexpensive rifles out there, they don’t offer the attributes I want in a western hunting rifle. Remember the title of this article. It’s “Ultimate”, not “Cheap”.

I expect to pay $1,600 to $3,500 for a rifle that meets my criteria, and if I want the Lamborghini option (Gunwerks), three times that amount. In return I know I’ll have a hunting rifle I can trust in any circumstances, and that will still shoot true when I pass it down to a grandchild.

Leupold 3×18-44 VX6 riflescope. To the author’s way of thinking this is one of the finest hunting scopes available today.


Your riflescope is the tool that connects your rifle with your target, and as such should be the highest quality you can afford. Zeiss, Trijicon, Swarovski, Leica, Nightforce, and others build great scopes, but in my personal opinion Leupold builds the best hunting riflescopes (largely due to their turret design). Any of the above brands will work very well. Look for these features:

Lightweight: There’s that word again. Trust me, it’s important. Giant, heavy scopes with 34mm tubes and magnification that rivals the Hubble Telescope are all the rage for precision and long range shooting, but believe me; they’re a long way from ideal for a western hunting rig. Look for a scope that weighs at or under 22 ounces.

Compact: Here again, big is unnecessary and inconvenient for western hunting. Select a scope that is compact and built around a one-inch or a 30mm tube.

Miles from the nearest road and hunting at 11,000 feet elevation, life is hard. Packing a big, heavy rifle and scope combination can cripple your hunt. Choose lightweight and compact instead.

Magnification: Look for a scope with a low-end magnification of two-point-five or three-power. You need low magnification with its accompanying large field of view for those up-close opportunities that inevitably occur when you least expect them. Someday when you’re trying to get a bullet into a big bull elk in thick timber, you’ll thank me.

On the top end, you’ll want at least nine-power magnification, though up to 18 is better. My all-time favorite scope is 3–18 power. I can turn the scope down for up close hunting, or all the way up to 18-power and use it as a spotting scope. I turn it down to nine power for any long shot. This gives me a big enough field of view that I can stay on the animal through recoil, spot my impact, and execute a rapid follow-up shot, if necessary. If you shoot with your scope turned up higher than nine or 10 power you run the risk of loosing sight of your target during recoil. Then you’ll struggle to reacquire it afterward, due to the limited field of view at high magnification. That’s not a problem while shooting paper at the range, but it’s huge when shooting at game.

Objective lens: Anything larger than a 44mm objective lens is too big and bulky. It’ll get in the way, off-balance your rifle, and smack up against something every time you set the rifle down. That’s hard on your rifle’s zero. Big objective lenses (the front bell of your scope) should be left to target and bench shooters.

A good hunting turret, complete with engraved yardage markings. It’s one of the best ways to set your hunting rifle up for long shots across open western terrain.

Turret: Long, open-country shots are common in the west, and a good dial-up turret with zero-stop or zero-lock type mechanism will serve you well. I like to add a yardage-marked turret as well, once I’ve broken the rifle in and chosen a load to use. Once you have worked up ballistic data for your setup (velocity, bullet weight, and BC, common temp, and altitude), you should contact the manufacture and they’ll help you order a yardage turret. Then all you need to do is range the target or animal, dial your turret to the corresponding range, and center the crosshairs for the shot. It’s awesome.

An awesome bull elk and equally great rifle, complete with lightweight one-piece alloy scope mounts by Talley. They’re precision-machined and bulldozer-tough.


Now that you’ve chosen your rifle and scope, all that’s left are the accessories.

Scope Mounts: Leupold, Weaver, Burris, Talley, and others all make awesome rings and bases. My favorite, go-to mounts for a western hunting rifle are Talley’s lightweight, one-piece alloy mounts. They are superbly strong and weigh next to nothing.

Carrying Sling: This little item is important because it aids you during long hours of carrying your rifle through rugged western big game country. Personally, I don’t like wide, cobra-style straps, because they tend to get in the way. Instead, try a one-inch or 1.25-inch wide sling made of leather or grippy rubber.

Using a bipod will add stability for long, challenging shots. Shown is one of the author’s favorite models made by Atlas.

Bipod: A bipod is not necessary; you can throw your pack on the ground or atop a boulder and use it as a rest. Lately, though, I’ve grown fond of using a good bipod for longer shots. They simply add an element of stability that’s hard to accomplish any other way. I like the models by Atlas or Spartan Precision.

Western big game comes hard-earned, but a lightweight, accurate rifle can make the difference between failure and success. Shown is the author’s friend Serge with a great deep-wilderness bull.


Once you’ve chosen and assembled your ultimate western hunting rifle, you are the final piece of the puzzle. Train with the rifle until it feels like an extension of you. You should be able to load and unload your rifle and check the turrets in the dark. When you shoulder the rifle your crosshairs should find the target automatically. Do extensive dry-fire practice from every imaginable field position. Learn where it shoots out to extended distances. Train to watch your impact through the scope while you cycle the bolt for an instant follow-up shot. When that western buck or bull of a lifetime shows up, you’ll be ready.

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  • Chris J Valerio November 24, 2022, 3:32 pm

    Great article! My Quest is the Ultimate Do Most Big Game Hunting Rifle! Just about impossible and may have to settle for 2 guns. My current chosen cartridges… 300 RUM and 375 Ruger. The 300 for everything from deer to moose and the 375 as a bit more security on things with teeth and claws. The 300 RUM should be light, have a 22 to 24 inch barrel max. I’ll let it’s displacement get me to 500 yards. That’s right, I don’t care a lick about effiency! I also hate brakes and cans! 6lbs bare is the goal. I can see using this rifle for elk in Black Timber, Mountain Deer and black bears in wide open cuts. The 375 Ruger is on a Tikka action. Again 22 to 24 inch barrel. Although the 375 is not a Stopping Rifle, it will do for most everything worldwide and actually shooting further out than one thinks. 500 yards is a possibility. I’m in the process of sorting these 2 rifles out and I like creating one-offs and for less $ that full customs. Both rifles will have carbon stocks and barrels. The 300 is a stainless 700 action and currently tips the scales at 6lb, 8oz with 26 inch factory barrel in a Grayboe Trekker stock. My plan is to blueprint and screw on 24 inch Carbon Barrel, with other goodies to taste. Or, I could just purchase a Christensen Arms Ridgeline FFT, which is a very tempting alternative. The T3 was a stainless 338 Win Mag, bored to 375 Ruger by JES in Oregon. Yes it functions perfectly, but I must Tinker and may screw on a carbon 375 barrel and nestle it into a Mesa Altitude stock. I expect both rifles to shoot MOA or better. My favorite Factory Runner Up rifle, even surprising me, is my Savage Ultralight 28 Nosler with 24 inch Proof barrel! Pretty much right out of the box, a do most hunting rifle, especially for Western Big Game! It’s light, accurate, handy, flat shooting, cool camo stock pattern and powerful enough for everything from deer to moose, near or far. If I didn’t lean towards 30 cal and up, that Savage just could end my Quest, allowing me to concentrate more on the hunt and less on collecting rifles!!!

  • Chuck McCord April 15, 2022, 12:42 am

    I want to see something about the Kimber9400 in 300wsm..
    Thank you

  • Scott Couch July 27, 2020, 3:39 pm

    I like Talley rings but, when they are placed on the receiver there is no movement for eye relief like a pic rail and standard rings. I went with the Warne Maxima rings.

  • tom July 10, 2020, 9:43 am

    If you are a true hunter you don’t need a large caliber, heavy rifle. You stalk, you don’t take 300-yard shots. I have killed many elk with my 243 and also used it for varmints. If you really know how to “hunt” you can easily get within range to make a clean kill with a small-caliber.

  • Mike Welch July 10, 2020, 7:37 am

    Why do all of your post hunt photos display a rifle with the action closed, and the firearm unattended? If the shooting is over what need is there for keeping the rifle in battery while attention is likely focused on the game animal and not the safe handling of a loaded firearm?

    • JSK July 10, 2020, 8:13 pm

      Keep “DISPLAYING” your ignorance of weapons MIke Welch, we all know what you are.

  • Gailon Hogan July 7, 2020, 11:59 am

    I must agree with “ME”. I am a seasoned hunter in other words old, and with all the weight saving gear, and clothing systems, along with freeze dried food, you have already saved 20lbs. When you used to keep warm with full blown wool and eat canned food, then MRE’s came along, freeze dried food is Fantastic. So if you can handle a wispy light rifle, Great, but if you need an extra pound or so on you rifle, [and do not cut on your scope], that’s OK !!!

    P.S. I carry a Weather Accumark 7mm mag. w/leupold 4.5-14×40 under 8lbs.

  • me July 7, 2020, 8:54 am

    While I like light weight rifles that actually are accurate I would rather lose 2 lbs. myself than worry about it in a rifle. One thing I have learned is a light weight rifle is harder to get steady after a person has climbed that mountain chasing an animal than one closer to 8 lbs..

    • FAL Phil July 10, 2020, 7:43 am

      There is a lot to be said for that. Not carrying that extra weight around the belly has many, many more benefits than a lightweight rifle.

      The author missed a great opportunity for another dimension of weight savings too. Instead of a heavy, bulky scope with a 30mm main tube, look for one of the equivalent quality scopes with a 1 inch tube (and yes, Leupold still makes them). You can save up to a quarter pound that way. And for mounts and rings, a 2-piece aluminum Weaver brand mount with the traditional Weaver brand rings is even lighter weight than the Talley setup. Plus, unlike the Talleys, the Weaver setup is combat proven, so, even though they are lighter weight, they are tough enough for hunting.

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